After reboot just now, the situation seems to happen (not seen) within 2 minutes.
My gateway is forwarding (uplink) packets, and shows connected to broker but the packets seem to end up at /dev/null I think, as my test client cannot connect and do otaa.
Weird… Nothing has changed in my setup… Something strange in the backend ?
Rudi
Hi All
Not sure how I can start my own topic on here, so asking this here.
Trying to activate my TTN-001-915 Gateway following the simple instruction.
Tried doing this on a Windows 10 machine connected via ethernet to my WiFi modem router and obviously this isn’t going to be easy, it would not detect the gateway as I don’t know ow to connect and log into it using Windows 10 in this way.
Ok, so I use my phone and connect the Wifi Gateway using the provided password, no problem, try the activate again (using a new device name because it won’t let me use the old one I have used before but haven’t setup!) and it still won’t connect. The LED’s are correct and flashing.
What’s up?
What am I doing stupid?
This is supposed to be an easy 5min setup, and yes I’m making video about doing this, and it’s not a great start.
Thanks
Dave
EEVblog
Ok I finally got it working on my Microsoft Surface via Wifi connection, but it fails to “checkin”, even though if I log in I can see my gateway is connected and I can map it etc.
What’s going on?
Thanks.
Hi Dave,
Some questions from my side:
What I can see is that your gateway is administrated (http://noc.thethingsnetwork.org:8085/api/v2/gateways/eevblog4) but has not send any data to the network:
btw: This is public information. I am no employee of TTN but community member.
Not if he’s S.E side of Australia around Sydney area 
…quite 
SECURITY - how do you stop the gateway from being a hotspot or changing the default password. Is this password used elsewhere?
“Don’t turn it on, take it apart!”
Is the the RN2903 in the UNO firmware updated for Australia channelisation as per LoRaWAN1.01 specification?
I assume by the video the TTN GW can be set for Australia channelisation.
Hi Abaretta, I am looking into rootcausing a similar issue. Are you using the 915 of 868 MHz TTN gateway version?
You mentioned having range problems elsewhere in the forum. Could it be that after reseating the LoRa board, that your antenna connector has come loose?
Hi Reinier,
I have the 868 MHz version. I did check the antenna connection before, and incidentally did so again today. I can’t find anything obviously wrong with it. I can certainly tell the difference with/without the antenna connected.
The LoRa board is fitted under a bit of stress in the 1636D4 socket. The plastic pins connecting it to the mainboard pull it down, bending the board it seems. I was planning to reseat the board, but noticed that it involves removing the antenna connector first as it is in the way when taking out the LoRa board. That and the fact that the board seems to be fitted a bit awkwardly made me think twice, so I got a cup of coffee instead
Initially when the gateway wouldn’t connect to TTN it was sufficient to push and wiggle the board a bit to get it going.
In the meantime I have swapped the stock antenna for a GP 868 antenna and yesterday I did a more elaborate mapping of the signal. The range is limited to just over 550 m at SF7 in all directions, a marginal improvement over stock (edit: measured indoor in the attic, behind a typical Dutch roof with hardboard and rooftiles).
Let me know if I can assist in troubleshooting this further, thanks in advance,
Regards, Anne
I get that message. Is there a fix?
Today I received a new second ThingsNetwork gateway. Works without any troubles!
I asume there is something wrong with the hardware by the rebooting gateways (like my first one)
Connected only by lan. I will check what is other…later.
Uptime: >2000 
The same firmware but there is a difference by type. My malfunction Gateway 1636D4, the new, good one 1708D4! see picture.
The second gateway 1636D4 works also by WiFi only. Data from nodes ok, and connected!
sorry, 1708D4 is ok the new device…not the old1634D4
Remove the white cover to see the board number (pull slightly upwards at one corner of the white cover to remove it). 
. If there is number 1634D4 I asume it will never work.
That’s quite a bold statement, especially as you’re the first to mention that version, and as people see improvements just by installing different firmware? (For me, 1635D4 which is okay for some, was in a reboot loop until I installed different firmware.)
